Tuesday, July 2, 2013

The Lovely Doors of Florence




Door from the reading room at the Laurentian Library reading room





Bianca liked the name of this little shop





Florence Cathedral door
I'm sad that I wasn't able to get to see the original Baptistry door that was deemed by Michaelangelo as being the most perfect door ever created (it actually doesn't hang outside any longer), but here is the reproduction door that still swings where the original one did:



Florence in a day


It seems crazy that we were able to go to Florence to see all we could in one day; a lot of people will spend at least three days there. We did get up early, but had to drive 2 1/2 hours to get there. We drove to a nearby city, parked our car in a Coop (the big grocery store) parking lot, and took the tram into the city so we didn't have to deal with parking there. I was reading a book Eric lent to me (Dan Brown's Inferno, which takes place for the first half in Florence) so I felt like I understood the city before we arrived.

It was a little overwhelming to walk through the old city with all the tall beautiful buildings (not to mention all the tourists!). We started off in this little city corner.



Then we ambled in the direction of the rest of the sheep.

As I was reading in my Inferno book the night before, our narrator mentioned the Laurentian Library (Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana) that contained a set of steps designed by Michaelangelo and the adjoining reading room that he also designed back in the mid-1500s. I thought, yeah, I'd like to see that, so it was our first real stop. And I have to say, it was my very favorite! The library is in this large building that contains also a large basilica, which we did NOT see.

The courtyard at the Medicea Basilica
The stairs really were remarkable.
The staircase that leads to the Reading Room
The staircase designed by Michaelangelo
The reading room above was also designed by Michaelangelo. There were these cool benches with book tables designed for people who were there to borrow the library's books. I guess the books were assigned to specific benches, so if you were done reading one book and ready to move to another, you had to change seats as well. 

The Reading Room in the Laurentian Library
I LOVE cool ceilings and wow! this one was just amazing with all the carved, intricate woodwork! So perfect for a library ceiling.

Ceiling in the reading room  at the Laurentian Library in Florence

It was about my favorite thing we saw in Florence and all because of that silly book I was reading. I also liked that not many other people seemed to know about it so it wasn't crowded with tourists like most of the places in Florence.

We wandered around for a while after, had some gelato (probably the best we had while in Italy!), and did I mention yet that I was in door heaven? It was hard to get anywhere with the many pictures I was taking in front of cool doors! (See separate blog for the amazing doors of Florence.)

Honestly, we just sort of went through the city stopping here and there. The outdoor stuff is just so amazing, do you really need to go in?

I worked really hard to get the other tourists out of my pics, but look at all the heads lining the bottom of the photo
We stopped for lunch at a sandwich shop that served their Italian meats and cheeses on these super hard breads (I guess we're softies in the US because my mouth was totally beat up after just one sandwich). We were sitting inside this little sandwich shop and Bianca mentioned how she didn't like tourists (of course, the irony is there). The couple sitting in the same room giggled and I realized we were in the company of other English speakers. They were from Canada and really nice and they told us what was worth seeing, what wasn't, etc.

We wanted to go see some other stuff, but the lines were snaking through the streets and who has the time to wait in those lines when you've only got one day in Florence? Eric wanted to go see the "David" but the line for that museum was way too long. We actually waited in it a while before we gave up. Is it uncivilized for me to say that I saw plenty of male nudity in these fountains, in which we did not have to wait in lines? 

Fountains in Florence
Bianca was not impressed with all the nakedness of the statues
And of course, we saw the nice little replica of the David as well.  I don't need David. Give me Michaelangelo's staircase instead any day. We wandered through this wonderful open building I wish I knew what it was, but maybe it's okay to just enjoy its beauty for what it is.




Eric finally got his souvenir for the trip. He wanted a pair of Italian shoes. We saw a nice pair in a window while we were walking around and spent the next little while trying some on. 

We next made our way to Dante's little church. It really was just a small little door, with beautiful music luring you in. It wasn't flashy or crowded. I sat in one of the pews and let the music roll over me. This church is where Beatrice Portinari's body is laid. The story goes: Dante met her when he was young (8 or 9 years old) and loved her his entire life. She married someone else (as did he) but it was always Beatrice for him. She was the inspiration in a lot of his writing. There's a basket in this church where you can scribble your story and dreams in a sort of prayer to Beatrice in hopes that your unrequited love will love you back or to reach out to loved ones that aren't with you anymore. What a beautiful little church! No line for this one, but I'd take this sweet church over the huge cathedrals, thankyouverymuch.

Funny thing, though, as we made our way back through Florence, the huge line that had wrapped two hours long through the square to the Florence Cathedral was almost gone! We got into see the cathedral in a couple minutes. You had to be dressed modestly to enter the Duomo di Firenze (Florence Cathedral), which is why we had worn dresses that day. Speaking of which, in Italy, it's not called Florence--it's actually Firenze. The girls sat down and wrote in their journals (their feet were hurting already) while Eric and Mom looked around. The girls were sitting over a grate that was open below, which we later found out was the crypt because Eric and Mom went down there. 

In the interior dome part of the cathedral is the Vasari painting and it is quite beautiful. It's just amazing all the detail work put into these beautiful cathedrals. I sat down next to the girls while they wrote and just looked around. There is so much beauty here.

Florence Cathedral's dome ceiling
Once while we were standing around, not sure where to go next, a group of Asian tourists was passing by. A woman put her arm on Bianca's shoulder and said something (we weren't sure what, but this wasn't new to us in the last couple weeks) so Bianca assumed she was asking her to move out of the picture she was going to take. But I don't think that was it, because then they started walking by and taking pictures of Portia. Maybe it was her blue eyes and light hair? It was funny, though, because after they passed, Portia asked, Why were they taking my picture? I told her maybe somewhere she'll be immortalized in someone's vacation pictures from Florence.

After the cathedral, we made our way back to the tram. 

Eric thinking, like Macchiavelli

Saturday, June 29, 2013

A down day

We were in need of a down day after the craziness of the Cinque Terre, so we decided to stick around our little village of Carro and visit another nearby village. The other village was called Varese Ligure and had an old, old castle in the center of the city. You can't go into it because it's actually privately owned (it was a residence once upon a time, which seems crazy big). There were some shops in Varese Ligure, including a bakery that filled us up with a whole bag of cookies for about one euro.

We walked around the village and really that was about it. There was a pretty little stream running through the town with this old stone bridge.

The bridge at Varese Ligure

I thought this wrought iron and flower boxes were so pretty on this yellow house

Oh, the Italians are not afraid of color! (Varese Ligure)

We tried to find somewhere to eat around 1 o'clock, and nothing was open. Seriously. We drove and drove up windy, narrow mountainous roads looking for a specific restaurant (which didn't open until 2:30, really?) and then we stopped in Sesta Godona at the restaurant attached to the gelateria where we had already stopped several times and they weren't open. Finally, after a lot of driving around, we stopped at the supermarcato (supermarket) and bought some pesto and pasta to take home and make ourselves.

We lazed around our little house a while and decided to do a load of laundry. Oh my gosh--the washer wouldn't ring out our clothes and we left them out to drive for the next three (I'm not kidding) days and they still never fully dried. I love Europe, but I don't know if I could live there without a proper laundry room.

We decided to go walking in the nature trails in Carro later in the afternoon. We found the sweetest teeny little ripe red strawberries on the trail. We ate them as we walked. The girls kept spotting lizards along the way as well.



Here's the view of Carro from where we were hiking.


We decided to eat at the Pizzeria in Carro for dinner (which did not open until 7pm). Italian restaurants in the villages keep the oddest hours. I had the white pizza and it was absolutely amazing! 

After dinner, we visited the Carro church whose bells pealed every hour, even long into the night. It is such a beautiful church!


Speaking of church, one of the things you see a lot on the outsides of Italian homes are these little Catholic shrines with statues of Mary. We saw a lot of them (you can see them beside doors in some of my door pictures) but this was probably the most unusual one I saw our whole time in Italy. I'm pretty sure it's made out of seashells--very beautiful!


After our walk back through Carro (wishing all the villagers sitting outside their doors a buonasera), we called it a night, played a little Kings on the Corner with mom and the girls, and got to bed early. Everywhere we went, Portia found Italian cats to chase through the streets.


DOORS OF THE DAY







Friday, June 28, 2013

The Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre is a group of five coastal cities in Liguria that have retained their historic charm over the years. Sometimes people hike between the five cities of The Cinque Terre, but with a six-year-old and a sixty-something year old (whose head is much more adventurous than her body allows), we decided to take the train and get off at each city.

We missed the first train and ran through the little village searching for a swimsuit to replace the one Bianca left in France. The little girls in Italy only wear bottoms until they hit about twelve. Fortunately, the store had the tops too so we were able to find a suit for Bianca.

RIOMAGGIORE

We decided to start from the farthest city Riomaggiore. We walked all through the hilly town. It was up and down, up and down. It was so lush. We particularly loved the poppies that grow wild as weeds.


Overlooking the coast in Riomaggiore

Everything is so lush here

Exploring the small passageways to the Centro of Riomaggiore
My kids and their pursuit of the gatti (cats) of Italy

Mom, Bianca, and Portia
Heading back to the train station

MANAROLE

My lobster ravioli
Mom and her critters
Next we stopped in Manarole. By then, our main thing was food. We needed to eat by and found a place to sit down and have lunch. The kids didn't want seafood, so they got some foccacia pizza bread and brought it over to the seafood place. Unfortunately, they didn't believe in taking the seafood out of the shells. I ordered the Raviolis with lobster and expected the lobster chunks to be inside the ravioli, but turns out they brought me out a whole mini lobster. Mom looks pretty happy in the picture below, but she was a little bit horrified with all the antennae and legs and little beady eyes peering up at her from her plate. 

There were some really pretty cliffs by the sea where you could climb down and get close to the water, so we took some pretty pictures.



CORNIGLIA

Portia resting after 365 steps up to Corniglia
Corniglia was a whopping 365 steps up from the train station trail to the center (centro) of the city. Bianca and Portia counted all the way up. Mom lagged off behind, but did finally make it.

I guess Corniglia is the famous for its honey-sweetened gelato, so we did reward ourselves with gelato after our long hike up. And yes, we had a "piccolo" gelato every day we were in Italy. I think my kids (and I) have gotten spoiled! At least we're walking around so much we work it off.

Corniglia is a pretty little village; they all are. But this one is definitely most memorable for its steps.

We walked around, eating our gelato, and then headed back down the 365 steps to the train station.

The tiered land is a big part of the Cinque Terre and how the Italians who
lived here worked their hilly land

Waiting for gelato

Pretty, gritty Italy

Ah the view on the steps down from Corniglia

My silly girls at the train station

VERNAZZA

When we got off the train for Vernazza, I realized this was the place for shopping. There were little shops all along the way to the centro, and the coolest thing was the way the shops were build against the rock and the rock was exposed on the inside of the buildings. I found a green skirt I just had to have. Unfortunately, these shops were the negotiating sort so the monster in Eric came out. We ended up walking out. I don't know why we have to play that game. The kids put their feet in the water and picked around a little while I pined for the skirt. Finally, I grabbed some Euros and went back to the store. I offered the 40 Euros the woman had initially asked for the skirt (down from the 45 she said at first). She pressed a one-Euro piece into my hand as I was leaving and said, "For your husband." I was then able to tell Eric how I whittled her down an extra Euro. 

Getting their feet wet and searching the sand for treasures

My girls are always looking for something interesting

Vernazza


MONTEROSSO AL MARE

Finally, the girls go swimming. They were VERY patient.
Our last stop was in Monterosso and the kids were so anxious by now because this is where they got to go swimming. Finally, a sandy beach! It was after five by now but at least the beach was nearly empty. 

We were pretty tired by now, so I just sat on the sand and let my feet rest. And enjoyed the beautiful view of the Italian coast. I can't imagine hiking the Cinque Terre. Just taking the train and walking through the cities was plenty of exercise!


The beautiful coast of Italy

DOORS OF THE DAY

A door in Riomaggiore

A turquoise door in Vernazza. Not sure where the door leads to, but it was enchanting!

I love that this door actually says Vernazza on it. This is one of my very favorites!